You can gauge the popularity of a food by its ubiquity. In
Florence, if you go into a deli, a bakery, a supermarket, you’re going to be
able to find this incredible dish – Melanzane alla Parmigiana. It’s a versatile
dish that makes for a great jumping-in point for this blog; it has simple
ingredients, tastes fantastic and is really easy to make.
The dish originated in the southern regions of Italy, and
Naples has a particularly strong claim to being the bearer of the original
recipe. Aubergine recipes have been found in Southern Italy dating back as far
as 1400, although the first recipes for Melanzane alla Parmigiana don’t appear
until a little later. Originally, the style was more akin to the creamy layer
of a lasagne, with slices of aubergine baked in a béchamel and parmesan sauce,
and it wasn’t until the early 19th century that the newly popular
tomato entered the fray. From there, the food spread across Italy and over the
Atlantic to America, where you can also find versions made with breaded pieces
of chicken or veal.
My version of Parmigiana comes from nowhere in particular,
aside from having eaten the dish at every opportunity, and most of all trying
to emulate the most fantastic one I had back in sunny Bristol, homemade by a
good friend in a bad time.
Serves 4-6
Prep & Cooking time: 90 mins
Ingredients:
1 brown onion, finely chopped
3 cloves fresh garlic, crushed
1 tbsp tomato purée
2 tsp oregano
3 medium aubergines, sliced lengthways
A heap of grated parmesan
A mozzarella ball
Breadcrumbs
Plenty of good olive oil
Salt
Pepper
The Sauce:
A good tomato sauce is a must, and I must emphasize that a
little patience goes a long way in Italian food. The difference between heating
a tin of tomatoes in a saucepan and cooking a tomato sauce is much more a
matter of giving it the time to cook than ingredients you throw in.
1.
Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a saucepan over a
medium heat, until the oil is hot but not smoking
2.
Fry the onions until they go translucent (five
minutes or so) and add the garlic and oregano, stirring to prevent the garlic
burning
3.
After a few more minutes, add the tomato puree
and stir in
4.
Stir in a tin of tomatoes (I usually also add
about half a tin of water, in order to rinse out the tin, but you can take or
leave that one), bring the sauce to the boil and let it simmer, seasoning with
a good pinch of salt (don’t skimp, a pinch of salt is not to be taken
literally) and pepper
| An Italian Pinch |
5.
Leave this bad boy covered and bubblin’ for a
good half an hour, longer if you can. If it needs more liquid, add water as
necessary.
You can do the sauce in advance (this sauce recipe is a good
general base for any tomato-centric dishes, and makes a good pizza sauce too if
you reduce it for long enough), either on the day or long before if you make up
a big batch and freeze it.
The Aubergines:
Nowadays, we don’t need to salt our aubergines (aren’t we
lucky), but adding a bit of salt to each slice at this stage will make for a
tastier end result. You want to slice them to ¼ of an inch thick (I tend to
loathe the use of imperial but half a centimetre won’t do it and a centimetre
is probably too much).
1.
Give each slice of aubergine a coating of oil,
either with a pastry brush or by hand. You’ll need lots of oil, as those slices
can be thirsty!
| Yes, that is a petrol can. |
2.
Fry the slices hot, or alternatively you can
grill or bake them (or my preferred way, use a griddle pan, but I had to leave
it behind *sad face*). A bit of charring on the pieces won’t hurt, in fact I
find it gives the aubergine a stronger, more savoury edge.
The Main Event:
You can pre-fry all of the aubergine, or you can do this
part as you go. You’re going to want your sauce at hand, as well as your cheese
ready and grated/sliced. You can also choose here whether to add mozzarella to
each layer or save it for the end. The former tends to create a hot goopy
wonder of cheese and aubergine, while the other is a little less messy, and I
find lets the parmesan flavour express itself better as you eat. Your choice
(my advice is make both).
1.
Heat up your oven to 200/180(fan)/Gas Mark 6
2.
In a deep oven-proof dish (a lasagne dish is
great), layer the food. You want to build it in this order – aubergine, sauce,
cheese and repeat until you reach the top.
3.
Add breadcrumbs to the final layer if you
desire; you’ll end up with a crispy top that looks great and adds a little
crunch to the otherwise quite soft dish.
4.
Bake in the oven for 25-30 minutes, until the
cheese/crumbs on top go a nice golden brown
| Of course, I'd eaten half before I remembered to take a photo |
Eat:
Put in mouth, swallow.
And there you have it. You can have Melanzane as a main
course, a side dish, or if you’re like me, you can eat 3 servings worth in one
sitting with a salad spoon.
Ciao tutti!
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